Relish, Food & Wine
86 Washington St.
South Norwalk - (203) 854-5300

Relish is a sweet indulgence
“Relish”: to eat or drink with pleasure

 
 I just read a review of the very same restaurant that I’m about to tell you about.  I can’t for the life of me get a good understanding of what the reviewer thought of the place. His words were flowery and his grammar was quite sophisticated, but we’re talking about food here people!  Well, I’m going to give it to you straight, like I always do. Here’s what I thought of Relish, Food & Wine, a stylish, year-old addition to SoNo’s thriving restaurant scene.

Chef/Owner Bill Taibe, one of Fairfield County’s shining stars in the food world, has teamed up with long-time restaurateur Danny Solomon to create a dining and gathering place that’s all about good food and good wine. Simple. As evidence of the chef’s popularity within his industry, Chef Taibe surrounds himself with a proficient and knowledgeable staff,  who I call “fans of Bill”, those who have followed him from his past positions at other area restaurants. It’s quite a compliment for a chef to have such a fan base behind the scenes with him.

The front of the house consists of a long, narrow room with exposed brick walls lined with black and white prints, leather banquette seating, ivory colored leather back chairs, soft lighting, and tables covered in butcher paper. The intimate bar is separated from the dining room by a simple room divider, keeping the pristine space open and airy. The staff is casual, both in attire and manner, contributing to the overall laid-back atmosphere. But, that’s not to say that the staff isn’t on the ball – they are. Their approach to food and wine is fun, making it accessible to their guests on all levels. We were steered towards ordering two very interesting wines by the glass since my boyfriend and I were in the mood for different varietals. The wine list (approx 100 bottles from around the globe) boasts a fabulous cross-section of familiar and not-so-familiar bottles ranging from $30-$100, with just a few extra special ones thrown into the mix.

It was great to see that some of Chef Taibe’s signature dishes followed him to Relish. A fan of seasonal vegetables, artisan cheese, oysters, game meats, truffles, and foie gras, the chef always seems to work these ingredients into his menus. The blue point oysters were plump and served with a taste of caviar and a refreshing celery juice, giving them a clean, crisp taste.

We continued with the appetizers ($10-$18). A sampling of foie gras included a silky chilled foie gras mousse with poached pear slices and walnut oil, sweet pan roasted with roasted tart apples and marinated prunes, and a pate-like terrine served with tangy gooseberry jam and walnut bread. In keeping with Chef Taibe’s decadent tastes, his popular macaroni and cheese creation for that evening featured chipped ham and smoked Gouda cheese – of which the combination of cheesy concoctions changes frequently. However, be warned, food as indulgent as this is best enjoyed when shared.

Lighter fare included white asparagus and wax bean salad with a black truffle and walnut oil dressing and warm Taleggio cheese. This is a tough dish to pair with wine due to the conflicting acidity and truffle oil, but the dish itself works beautifully. Red and yellow beets are as sweet as candy and drizzled with hazelnut oil and served with goat cheese. We loved the wild striped bass carpaccio, sliced paper thin with blood oranges and an icy Compari granite. None of these dishes would work if the ingredients weren’t of the highest quality and at their absolute freshest.

As the dining room filled up we noticed the pace seemed to stay on an even keel – the sign that the staff has their act together. The crowd that gathers is a marvelous mix of couples and large groups. There’s a broad range of ages, another positive sign that Relish is attracting a varied clientele, appealing to many tastes. The bar, though small, sees a steady stream of revelers and diners, most with a glass of wine in front of them. The chef surveys the dining room often, keeping his finger on the pulse of the evening.

Moving on to the entrees,  ($19-$34) two standout dishes were the diver sea scallops (“English Breki Style”) and roast tuna paillard. Perfectly poached eggs, baked beans, and smoky bacon over crisp toast accompanied the sweet scallops. While our first impression of this dish was mixed, we found ourselves drawn to the flavors and eventually wound up enjoying the innovativeness of the dish. The tuna fared the same. Due to high heat, the right pan, and a salty rub, the sear on one side of the rare tuna created a scrumptious crust-like bottom to the fish. Served with cappelini carbonara, white asparagus, and yet another egg yolk, this dish once more heightened our epicurean senses.

Pork tenderloin was a comforting dish, cooked perfectly to a light pink center with caramelized pears, sage brown butter, and parsnips. Spiced venison loin also hit a high note with us. Leans slices of medium rare meat were perfectly under-seasoned, letting the gamey flavor through. I think Chef Taibe has just as much fun with the accompaniments as he does with the meat and fish. Here braised red cabbage and fluffy gnocchi with fresh thyme share the plate. Other noteworthy entrees include duck breast glazed in honey with pumpkin caponata, Chef Taibe’s popular beef short ribs with cheddar and pastina, and organic veal loin with sunchoke puree and braised lettuce and truffle sauce.

The banana cream pie here has been written and talked about so much that we just had to try it. A thin praline bowl is filled with fresh bananas, pieces of fudge brownie and sweet cream filling, and topped with whipped cream and chocolate shavings. So that’s what all the fuss is about. Wow! Lavender and honey crème brulee is aromatic, not too sweet, and light. Carnaroli rice pudding is an interesting interpretation of such a peasant- like dessert, served on a plate with huckleberry sauce and flavored with vanilla – different and delicious.

I’m sure you’ve caught on by now that Relish is indeed an exciting exploration in tastes and contrasts. Rich, bold, and somewhat indulgent, this unique eatery is just the place to give in to one’s weaknesses.

 
Linda can be reached at linda@maxexposure.net.