Ristorante DiSopra
64 Greenwich Avenue    
203.861.9014

Dining...on an entirely new level
 

My opening title was stolen from Ristorante DiSopra’s own tagline. Why? Because it just fits. DiSopra opened in October of 2003 on Greenwich Avenue. The only people who were lucky enough to know about DiSopra were the patrons from the space’s former restaurateur…well, kind of. Are you confused yet?

 The history is this: 64 Greenwich Avenue Restaurant, the establishment that had occupied this gorgeous bi-level space for several years, was sold in 2001. Greenwich Avenue Steak House followed, then morphed into The Gingerman. Both concepts were pretty straight forward – steak, seafood, and New American fare, along with an active, local bar scene. While the space is breathtaking with a winding staircase leading up to the second floor, lots of wood structuring with a men’s club atmosphere, it is also difficult (and expensive) to maintain without doing a large volume of business. Gingerman’s co-owner Mario Contacessi and Executive Chef Eugene Jerome eventually split (leased) the real-estate and created a stylish regional Italian restaurant, DiSopra, on the second floor.

 Gingerman continues to operate on the ground level under different ownership, while DiSopra’s obscured existence upstairs seems to work in its favor. Unable to display a second floor sign due to a silly town ordinance, the only sign (literally) of DiSopra is the dimly lit dining room seen from the street below, and by the projected “DiSopra” red light on the entrance wall once in Gingerman. Why on earth would a talented restaurateur and dynamic chef take on such a challenging location? The answer is this: They are confident that the word will get out and they are even more sure that what they offer is unique, fresh, and first-rate. That goes for the ambiance, staff, the food, and the wine. Intrigued? I was.

 It was love at first sight. The grand entrance upstairs to the dining room led me into a warm and inviting room and into the welcoming hands of Mario Contacessi. His elegant Italian accent was enough to get me into the mood for some soothing red wine and delicious food.  My dinner companion that night was Chef Andrew Howgego from Porterhouse Restaurant in South Norwalk. I brought him with me because he had been bragging about his “favorite chef” that he had cooked with when he first came to the states. I thought, besides from a fun reunion, Andrew would enjoy being on the receiving end of Chef Jerome’s culinary prowess.

 This is a first for me. Due to the daily menu change that takes place at DiSopra, the dishes I’m about to describe to you may or may not be on the menu when you visit. But, what you will get out of this meal is hopefully, a good understanding of what the Chef’s food is all about. It starts with simplicity, fresh ingredients, classic techniques, and a genuine passion for what he cooks.

 Antipasti ($9-$15) on this particular night consisted of imported New Zealand mussels stuffed with prosciutto and mozzarella and steamed with olive oil, garlic and plum tomatoes. Each bite was as mouthwatering as the next with salty, zesty contrasts going on all at once. We were told the same preparation was also done with clams depending on what’s the freshest that day. One of my favorite Italian recipes has always been my grandmother’s sautéed chicken liver on toasty bread points. Here, Chef Jerome sautés chicken and duck livers and then drizzles with black truffle oil, creating a more rich and indulgent variation on the norm. The sweet pear salad is all about the fresh ingredients. Crispy pears, chards of Parmiggiano Reggiano cheese, and watercress are dressed with aged balsamic vinegar.

 Farinaci (pasta, $21-$23) dishes are unlike any other to be experienced in this area. Innovative combinations included house made spinach ribbon pasta tossed with julienned lamb, artichokes and sage, agnolotti stuffed with ground veal, pungent cheese and fresh tomatoes, and dumpling like pasta filled with roasted pork, sweet sausage, ricotta cheese, in a sweet pea cream sauce. The peas were so fresh they snapped in your mouth, while the cream sauce was just enough to coat the pasta. This dish was a winner. Hopefully the chef will continue to take advantage of the sweet peas as long as they are in season.

 Pesci (fish, $28-MP) preparation at DiSopra is true to the more Tuscan way of treating fresh fish. Garlic-citrus whole prawns were sautéed in their shell, allowing for the true flavors of these delicate creates to come out. Monkfish, an often over looked delicacy, had been braised and served in a saffron cream sauce. The aromatic saffron was a tasty fit with this mild and meaty lobster-like fish. Sea bream fillets were simply sautéed with mussels, garlic, white wine, and lemon – again, allowing the fish to shine.

 Carne (meat) dishes ($24-$32) included calf’s liver sautéed with brown butter and sage. Perhaps an acquired taste, but what a great place to acquire it! Pan-roasted lamb chops were succulent, as were the roasted veal chops with porcini mushrooms, onions and rosemary. The Chef uses all the pan juices and crispy bits to create a superb sauce, which is another signature technique in Italian cooking.

 I, of course, had to try the many side dishes offered on the menu. Another highlight of my family’s cooking were the wonderful vegetables. DiSopra did them all justice as seen with the broccoli rabe with garlic and olive oil, the roasted cauliflower, stewed zucchini with fresh tomatoes and basil, and the grilled Portobello mushroom. These are also great to share with the table as an appetizer with some crusty bread.

 Desserts ($6-$10) are not overpowering – and that’s a good thing. Sponge-like babba soaked in sugar syrup (sometime in rum) came with fresh berries and unsweetened whipped cream. This is all one needs to bring a fabulous meal to a close. The fluffy cream puff with custard and dark chocolate drizzle was a real treat with our frothy cappuccinos!

 A mostly Italian wine list is full of exciting varietals, including super Tuscans, fruity pinot grigio, and some fabulous Chiantis. Price points are fair at DiSopra. Value is high and the service is faultless.

 So, go find this gem on Greenwich Avenue. Impress your friends and family with this hidden treasure. They will not be disappointed.

Ristorante DiSopra
64 Greenwich Avenue    
203.861.9014

 
Linda can be reached at linda@maxexposure.net.