Really Good Food

What More Can I Say?

When my boyfriend and I were on vacation in France we eventually grew tired of the French food. So, we crossed the border into Italy for our favorite Italian comfort foods. We were then able to resume our vacation having filled that void that only simple, fresh Italian food can do. While there may be numerous Italian restaurants in Fairfield County, only a few have brought me back to my family’s kitchen. Thanks to Chef Peter Del Franco and his adorable wife Grace, I am once again transported back to my Grandmother’s kitchen, this time by way of Avellino’s Restaurant in Fairfield.

Avellino’s is a local favorite that has fallen under many food writers’ radar. 11 years ago and two renovations later, Avellino’s continues to thrive with little fanfare, but rather, patron loyalty. That, to me, speaks louder than this one writer’s raves. But, rave, I will!

Think “cozy trattoria” with contemporary accents, as this 50+-seat dining room exudes simple European charm. Lovely Italian music echoes throughout the space. Large dark wood framed windows, terra cotta flooring, charming table settings, and wall tapestries of Piazza street dancers set the tone for an evening of good food and wine.

We came hungry, which, I believe, is the best way to start a meal. Our waiter quickly came to the table with toasty warm fresh breads. Crusty Italian, spongy foccacia with rosemary, and a chewy “Bronx-like” bread sliced super thin. The house Chianti did us just fine, as it was a rainy night and this soothing, fruit forward red wine was just the thing. Antipasti ($7.95-$12.95) offerings include the standby favorites that unless done right, can really flop. The calamari fritti are barely hinting of the cornmeal coating, and rapidly deep fried, allowing the tender, sweet squid flavor to come through. Yes. Squid does have flavor when it’s not beaten over the head! A zesty marinara sauce and a squeeze of lemon made this dish perfect.

Chef Del Franco’s bruschetta alla Margherita is over the top with the addition of an herb ricotta cheese to accompany the ripe marinated tomatoes and grilled bread. Tender stalks of my beloved broccoli rabe are sautéed with garlic and oil and served with sweet pork sausage. This dish is a true standout and if you’ve never had broccoli rabe before, this is the way to try it. A chilled assortment of cured “salumi” meats, sharp provolone cheese, roasted peppers, olives, and tomatoes are sure to make that bread basket disappear. They are a match made in heaven. We lucked out one night when the chef had a delivery of squash blossoms come in earlier that day. They were stuffed with creamy marscarpone cheese and wild mushrooms then deep-fried. Need I say more?

Refreshing salads ($6.95-$8.95) vary from the popular “Caprese” salad of thick slices of tomatoes, fresh milky mozzarella, basil, garlic and olive oil. Again, start dipping that bread. Baby green salad, a classic Caesar, and a warm goat cheese salad with crunchy pears, dried cherries and spiced walnuts are delicious.

Pasta! ($13.95-$19.95) Who can resist? First, let me tell you, Chef Del Franco’s pastas are consistently cooked al dente. No easy feat, believe me. That broccoli rabe and sausage dish I raved about earlier is also a great meal with the addition of orecchietta pasta. We enjoyed the spaghetti Caprese, a straightforward preparation of fresh tomatoes, garlic and herbs, with hints of warm mozzarella cheese throughout. The sauce to pasta ratio was just right in my opinion. Shrimp scampi over linguini and linguini with clam sauce were popular dishes on one of the nights we were there. We must have seen 10 of those go by! And Chef Del Franco’s lasagna is a classic preparation of wide pasta sheets, Bolognese sauce (a wonderful meaty mixture that is slow cooked into an intense flavorful reduction), fluffy béchamel, melted mozzarella, and a light tomato sauce. This is a great dish to share and savor. Eggplant lovers should go for the Melenzane Rollatini. Eggplant slices are stuffed with ricotta, spinach and mushrooms, and topped with marinara sauce and mozzarella cheese.

Carne (meat) and pollo (poultry) are taken seriously at Avellino’s. Fresh cuts of meat are carefully butchered, tenderized, braised, grilled and sautéed while maintaining the integrity of the meat. A special of veal osso bucco (veal shank) was slow cooked in a veal stock reduction served over creamy saffron risotto with spinach, shitake mushrooms, and sweet peas. There are many veal dishes to choose from, including a scallopini alla Piemontese with mushrooms, roasted red peppers and caramelized onions. Veal Zingara adds artichoke hearts and prosciutto Di Parma in a light cream sauce. One of my favorites is the chicken with escarole and cannellini beans. It’s light and flavorful with roasted garlic and olive oil. Sure, there’s “parmigiana” on the menu, but even though it’s first rate stuff, I believe it’s just there for less adventurous diners. Try the “Pollo Fantastico” instead; Boneless breast of chicken with peppers and onions, Marsala wine, prosciutto, and melted Fontina cheese. Delicious. Portions are generous, so sharing with the entire table and trying a little bit of everything will just add to the experience.

Just a few pesce (fish) dishes ($18.95-$21.95) are on the regular menu. Grilled salmon is served over a goat cheese and vegetable terrine with pesto oil drizzles on top. The tilapia is rather unique with a croissant olive crusted filet over asparagus risotto. There’s also a lemon jumbo shrimp dish serve over saffron risotto. All are fresh, light, and all allow the fish to shine through using wonderful aromatics and simple accompaniments.

I have two words when it comes time for dessert. Summer Pudding. This “berry fruity” indulgence is one of Grace’s specialties. It’s a terrine of layered bread soaked in mixed berry compote. It’s left overnight to soak and form, then sliced and served with fresh whipped cream. I’m craving it now. Other decadences include a fried banana cheesecake (you read it correctly), semifredo, and fresh fruit sorbets. ($4.95 - $6.95).

Chef Del Franco recently opened a second restaurant in downtown New Haven. The much larger space features special event rooms, a large bar/lounge area, and weekly wine events. This family business deserves all its success. Quality food prepared by nice people – how can you go wrong?