Backstreet Restaurant
22 Center Street, Darien, CT 06820
203-655-9944


Some Things Never Change…Or, Just A Little…

Remember those restaurants you went to with your family and friends when you were growing up? You know, the ones that always seemed to have the same customers and where you would always order the same dishes? After being part of the restaurants scene for so long now and having to keep up with my industry of food professionals, I was feeling a little nostalgic for something old and comfortable. I immediately called my friend from high school, one of the few “Fairfield County’ers” who still lives in the area. After much reminiscing about our favorite restaurants and bars that we frequented during our younger years, we decided to revisit Backstreet Restaurant in Darien. Throughout our twenties this was the place we sipped on cocktails in their minuscule bar, ate brunch outside on their patio, or enjoyed a late dinner after the movies. We were curious to see if much had changed over the last (almost) twenty years.

Backstreet opened in 1986. We were thrilled to learn that the Executive Chef, David Johnson, took over the restaurant in 2001. This meant we would still be able to have a true Backstreet experience knowing that David was still there – and running the joint!

First and foremost, the place looks the same. From the outside, tucked in between several small shops and 2^nd floor apartments, Backstreet’s glass wall, almost atrium like, along with their outdoor patio, is still in tact.  The small entranceway places the guests right in front of the bathroom and coat hooks. Turn left, you’re in the dining room – back to the right, you’re in the bar. Five stools make up the bar area. Tight quarters, but we still found it to be part of the charm of the place. So there we were, squished against the back wall of the bar, glasses of pinot noir held against our chest as we strategically lifted them to our lips so as not get bonked and dribble the red wine down our chins. Ahh…feels like old times.

The dining room is a simple two-row set up of low riding chairs and tables, blonde wood with glass table tops that have paisley patterned tablecloths underneath them. This is not a place to have a private conversation as the tables are fairly close to one another. Surprisingly, the noise level is low, most likely due to the carpeting. As we remembered, the service was friendly and attentive – as it should be in such a small room. Nobody gets “in the weeds” in this place.

Wouldn’t ya know it? The menu looked exactly the same! No kidding. We were curious to see if our favorites would stand the test of time. First on our trip down memory lane was the Cajun popcorn (appetizers $4.98 - $9.95). These crunchy little crawfish were still tasty with a bit of spice and served with that sherry dipping sauce – just like we remembered. The smoked trout platter was better than ever, as we found out that the chef is now smoking the fish himself. The country pate was fresh and flavorful and great with our pinot noir, while the buffalo chicken wontons were lacking in flavor. One reads “buffalo” and expects a little more  pizzazz. Baked brie was as we recalled, oozing out of a light pastry, served with fresh fruit and crackers. Blackened beef tenderloin is a spicy/salty pounded piece of grilled meat served with a mayonnaise and horseradish concoction. Unfortunately we were never served any bread, as I think this dish would have been well served with some crusty bread.

Still one of the best places to go for juicy burgers, we saw plenty of these being served throughout the night. Burgers and sandwiches ($7.95 - $13.95) are popular at Backstreet. Louisiana crabwich is a peppery sautéed crab cake with melted mozzarella cheese and tartar sauce. Quite decadent. Grilled chicken and steak sandwiches, as well as quesadillas and wrap sandwiches round out the more casual side of the menu for lunch. Salads ($4.95-$12.95) come in half and full size portions. Classic Caesar salad can be served with chicken or grilled shrimp. The curried chicken salad is one of the best I’ve ever had, with just the right amount of spice for a delicious sweet and smoky flavor. The chef, cobb, and spinach salads are generous portions of crispy fresh greens and toppings.

I was interested to see what happened to a few of my favorite entrees ($17.95 - $26.95), in particular, the confit of duck. Remembered as a crispy skinned thigh and breast that had that moist dark meat below that pulled away from the bone when a little pressure was applied, this dish was still as crispy as ever, and the meat flaked off the bone. Some may consider this dish to be too dry, but I’ve always enjoyed duck prepared in this fashion. After all, I’m the same girl that picks the crunchy bits of stuffing off the bottom of the turkey pan.  My journey back in time was going well. Calves liver (Pommery) is still served here. I love when a place has liver on the menu. It shows confidence. The slightly seared beefy pieces of liver are doused with sherry vinegar and Pommery mustard, a zingy contrast with the gamey flavored meat. The shrimp stir-fry is another golden oldie, as is the steak au poivre with brandy and the New Zealand rack of lamb. A few pasta dishes grace the menu. We particularly enjoyed the spinach fettucine with shrimp and prosciutto tossed in an alfredo-like sauce. The sauce wasn’t overly cheesy and the pasta was al dente. There’s nothing worse than a cream sauce with pasty pasta. This dish was done right.

We ventured into new territory with the veal lugano, scallopine breaded in parmesan cheese and bread crumbs then sautéed in lemon and butter. This was a tender and tangy dish and just needed an extra squeeze of fresh lemon juice on top. Rice and vegetables are no-frills here, and seemed to be served with most of the entrees, except with the blackened Louisiana catfish, which was served with creamed spinach and mashed potatoes. Chicken Francaise, filet of sole (Francaise or Meuniere style), and veal Madeira are a few other dishes that we saw make their way through the dining room on several occasions. Nightly specials are all about what the seasons bring. Chef Johnson gets asked for his famous seafood salad with the classic “Louis” dressing and his sautéed soft shell crabs all the time, but his customers will just have to wait for the tides to turn.

Desserts ($5) are a few simple stand-by favorites and are all homemade. There’s no bad choice here, especially a fluffy key lime pie that is both sweet and tart and served at a perfectly, slightly chilled temperature. The mud cake is a moist chocolate cake made with bourbon and coffee and served with vanilla ice cream. Crème brulee and chocolate mousse round out the dessert offerings. Martinis and Manahattans seemed to be the drinks of choice the nights we were there, while the wines by the glass are some reliable varietals. The wine list is straightforward with accessible price points.

It was as we remembered it, this tiny spot. The crowd has not changed at Backstreet Restaurant, a neighborhood eatery that is surely standing the test of time.

Linda can be reached at linda@maxexposure.net.